Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
